Good to know and travel safely in Sicily

Sicily today is a safe and welcoming destination, enjoyed by travellers from around the world seeking culture, privacy, and authentic Mediterranean living.

While the island has a complex history often amplified by media and cinema, modern Sicily is far removed from those narratives. Life here moves at a slower, more relaxed rhythm, particularly in the coastal towns and countryside where many of our villas are located.

As with any destination, a sense of awareness is always recommended, especially in busier urban areas such as Palermo and Catania. However, visitors will generally find Sicily no different from other European destinations in terms of safety.

Sicily is a place of contrasts, rich in history, tradition, and character. What defines the experience today is not its past, but its warmth, hospitality, and strong sense of community.

Thanks to the work of two iconic figures, Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino (and the 1986-1992 Maxiprocesso), we now know how the Mafia is organized, how it operates, its methods of affiliation and repression, its code of honour, and its relations with power.

Undoubtedly illegality, corruption and the mafia (as a form of organised crime) exist today. Still, they have radically changed their appearance compared to the past: rigged public contracts, distribution of favours to friends, corruption in politics, racketeering and rigged elections. The activities of organised crime include drug trafficking, online betting, extortion in all its forms, fencing and laundering of precious metals.

"As for the Mafia, although it is still active, it is not the tourists it attacks".

More info: Sicilian_Mafia

Exploring Sicily is, for the most part, relaxed and uncomplicated. The island welcomes visitors with a natural sense of openness and authenticity that is felt from the moment you arrive. As in any destination, a little awareness is all that is needed, particularly in lively city centres such as Palermo and Catania.

Simple habits are enough to ensure a smooth experience. Keep personal belongings close in busier areas and avoid leaving valuables visible in parked cars. When visiting cities, choosing secure parking or arranging private transfers allows you to move around with ease and without concern.

The characteristic historical markets of Palermo (Ballaro', Il Capo) and Catania (Fera 'o Luni and la Piscarìa) offer insight into the local Sicilians' customs and daily eating habits. Until a few years ago considered dangerous and unsafe, they are now frequented by many tourists and the curious.

The historic centres of Sicily’s main cities are vibrant and full of life, especially at weekends when streets and piazzas are busy with locals and visitors. This constant activity creates an atmosphere that feels both energetic and comfortable. Occasional petty theft can happen, as it does in any popular European destination, but it is easily avoided with a basic level of awareness.

If you travel by car, especially in Catania, it is best to choose secure or supervised parking whenever possible. As in any busy destination, car-related theft and petty crime can occur, so it is advisable not to leave luggage or valuables visible inside the vehicle and to take a little extra care when parking and unloading.

THE 'VUCCIRIA' (PALERMO) TODAY

Today, the Vucciria presents a very different scene. While echoes of its past remain, it has largely transformed into a lively social and nightlife area, where street food, casual dining and music take centre stage. In the evenings, the area comes alive with a mix of locals and visitors, offering an informal and energetic experience that reflects a more contemporary side of Palermo.

Today, the Vucciria is best experienced as a lively gathering place rather than a traditional market. By day, you will still find glimpses of its past, but it is in the late afternoon and evening that the area truly comes into its own, with tables set out into the streets and a relaxed, social atmosphere taking over.

It has become a popular spot to enjoy simple local dishes, street food and drinks in an informal setting, surrounded by the energy of Palermo’s historic centre. The experience is unpolished but vibrant, offering a spontaneous and authentic slice of city life that appeals to both locals and visitors.

Sicily’s position in the Mediterranean has naturally made it a point of arrival for people travelling from different parts of the world. While this is often highlighted in the media, in practice the island functions largely as a place of transit, where arrivals are received, supported and then relocated to other parts of Italy or Europe.

For visitors, this aspect of Sicily’s reality has little to no impact on the travel experience. Daily life continues as normal across the island, from coastal towns to historic cities, and tourism remains centred around culture, food, landscape and hospitality.

In some urban areas and along busy beaches, you may occasionally encounter individuals selling small items. This is a common sight in many destinations and is generally unobtrusive. A simple, polite “no, thank you” is always sufficient.

Recommended site: https://openmigration.org/en/

Does the word 'migrant' include 'refugees'?

The word 'migration' often implies a voluntary process, of those who, for reasons of great hardship, are forced to leave their country, cross a border and seek to move, temporarily or permanently, to another country in search of better economic opportunities, job opportunities, to try to improve their living conditions, or in other cases, for study, family reunion or other reasons. Sometimes people move to escape the dramatic consequences of natural disasters, famine or extreme poverty. For these reasons, people who leave their countries are usually not considered refugees under international law.

Refugees cannot return safely to their homes and are, therefore, entitled to specific protection measures according to existing norms of international law.

We must treat all human beings with respect and dignity. We must ensure that the human rights of migrants are respected. We must also ensure public support, protection for refugees, and the establishment of asylum.

In the context of the waves of immigration that have swept through Italy in increasing numbers over the past 30 years, the term migrant has tended to progressively replace the term immigrant in common usage. In common usage, co-opted by the media, a migrant is identified only with the most desperate person, the one who faces the transfer journey on barges, whereas, in reality, most immigration occurs across land borders and only occasionally with tragic outcomes.

PALERMO - RECEPTION AND INTEGRATION

For the best reception and integration in the city of Palermo, we recall the importance of 'The Mission of Hope and Charity' founded in 1991 by Brother Biagio Conte (a lay missionary) as a demonstration of how the people of Palermo (and Sicilians in general) are always ready and willing to help.

The Mission focuses on welcoming and giving oneself to the new poor of the city, to those who remain behind and on the margins of society: tramps, vagrants, young drifters, alcoholics, ex-convicts, separated people, prostitutes, refugees, and immigrants. In the Mission they are called brother and sister without any distinction.

Also in Palermo, 'Centro Astalli' has been a reference point for migrants and refugees for 20 years.

In the city, refugees and migrants are not considered as such and are easily and well integrated, surprising for their ability to learn the Italian language quickly.

Recommended articles and websites:

https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biagio_Conte_(missionary)

https://de.qantara.de/inhalt/fluechtlingshilfe-auf-sizilien-gottes-hausbesetzer

https://www.facebook.com/refugeeswelcomepalermo

The best way to travel around the island and visit all its wonders is by car, a solution that guarantees reaching even the most unexplored areas.

ROADS

There are four main motorway arterial roads in Sicily (bi-directional) that connect the main centres (they have 3/2 lanes):

With motorway toll: A20 Catania (Catania ring road junction (RA15))—Messina (Messina Sud barrier)—Palermo (Buonfornello barrier). At some toll stations, cashiers give change, while others are automated and only accept the exact amount. It is advisable to keep some change on hand.

Without tolls: A19 Catania-Palermo, A29 Palermo-Mazara del Vallo and A18 Catania-Val di Noto The A18 continues in the section between Syracuse, Ragusa and Gela; the A29 becomes the A29dir in the section between Alcamo and the province of Trapani. The more inland roads make it possible to move towards less accessible localities.

It is possible to find two-lane stretches, bottlenecks near viaducts, tunnels, unlit junctions, and interruptions for work in progress. The rule for safe travel is to respect the limits and signs along the route and pay attention when driving.

Particular attention should be paid to state roads and fast slip roads:

-SS121 Palermo Agrigento: very busy with trucks and buses

-Palermo Sciacca expressway (leading into the Belice villages)

-Fast roads connecting Ragusa, Syracuse and Gela

The other Sicilian roads (national or provincial) are the gateway to breathtaking scenery. Small landslides, potholes, or minor instabilities could be a problem, as could the presence of trucks or tractors. The roads in Sicily are varied and challenging: they range from medieval alleys to mountain roads with treacherous curves. If an alley is wide enough for a car, Sicilians will drive down it!

Driving in Sicily can be quite challenging and frustrating due to heavy traffic, narrow and poorly maintained roads, crazy drivers, a lack of parking, and bad road signs.

MAINTENANCE, SIGNPOSTING AND ROAD ADDRESSES

Road potholes are a real danger in Sicily: there are potholes almost everywhere and most roads are in very poor condition. Municipalities refuse to keep up with the roads. As a result, both horizontal and vertical road signs are poor and sometimes very bad (road signs are not easy to read or intuitive), pedestrian crossings are faded or discoloured, and roads are damaged.

Outside large cities, buildings, flats, houses and villas (for tourist use or otherwise) can be located in places (e.g. contra de/fractions/countryside, etc.) with a lack of toponymy so that a precise and defined cadastral address (street name and house number) is physically missing: do not be surprised because it happens frequently in Sicily. Having geographical coordinates for the location or a pre-established meeting point is useful to easily reach one's destination.

GOOGLE? BEWARE, IT IS NOT ALWAYS UP-TO-DATE

What is the best and easiest way to reach a destination? Google! But Google is not always up-to-date (especially in foreign languages) on the latest works in progress on highways/roads, especially in Sicily, where in big cities new pedestrian areas, road works and road system changes are constantly being opened. So sometimes it is better to ask Sicilian locals for information, who will be happy to help you.

HOW DO SICILIANS DRIVE?

Driving in Sicily can feel very different from what many visitors are used to, particularly in larger cities. The style is more instinctive and flexible, with drivers making quick decisions and adapting constantly to their surroundings. What may initially seem chaotic often follows its own rhythm, where awareness and confidence are key. In urban areas, you may notice cars parked in tight or unconventional spaces, scooters moving fluidly through traffic, and drivers making the most of every available gap. 

Indicators are not always used consistently, and movement can come from different directions, so it is important to stay attentive and check mirrors carefully. On faster roads and motorways, driving tends to be more direct, with some drivers moving quickly and keeping close distances. It is best to remain steady, keep to your lane, and allow others to pass when needed. Once you adjust to the local pace, driving becomes much more intuitive and manageable, and offers the freedom to explore even the most hidden parts of the island with ease.

TRAFFIC

Do not underestimate the traffic in the big cities of Palermo and Catania. The flow is much slower than you expect: the countless cars, scooters, traffic lights, double-parked cars, and buses slow down the pace. If you have accommodation somewhere outside the city, do not simply rely on Google Maps times but consider extra time for traffic.

PARKING

Parking in Sicily, particularly in larger cities, can require a little patience, especially during busy periods. Streets are often lively and space can be limited, but with a bit of local understanding it becomes much easier to navigate.

 In most towns and cities, parking is clearly indicated by coloured lines. 

Blue lines mark paid parking areas, where tickets can be purchased from nearby machines, tobacco shops or cafés. 

White lines indicate free parking, while areas without markings are generally unregulated, though it is always best to check for nearby signs. 

For added convenience, especially if travelling with luggage or valuables, private parking or a garage is often the most comfortable option. In some areas, you may also come across informal attendants who offer to watch over your car in exchange for a small tip. 

This is a common local custom and typically part of the everyday rhythm of city life. With a relaxed approach and a little flexibility, parking becomes simply another part of the Sicilian experience.

ZTL (LIMITED TRAFFIC ZONES)

In the large cities of Palermo and Catania, the ZTLs (restricted traffic zones) are in force in the historic city centres: these are areas of the city centre where the circulation of motor vehicles is subject to restrictions and is protected by electronic gates with cameras; residents and authorised persons can access them.

In Palermo, daily access passes can be purchased online, at authorised retailers or via the PalerMobility App

In Palermo, daily access passes can also be validated afterwards as follows

- from Monday to Thursday by midnight of the day on which the transit was made;

- from Friday to Sunday by 6.00 a.m. of the day for which transit was carried out;

The validity of day passes requested for Friday and Saturday is extended until 06.00 hours of the following day.

The Sunday night ZTL Passes must be activated after 06.00 hours on Saturday.

The daily pass in Palermo costs €5.00 for petrol and diesel cars and is blue in colour; it costs €2.50 for hybrid, methane and LPG cars and is green in colour.

More information for Palermo:

https://www.comune.palermo.it/polizia-municipale-info.php

More information for Catania:

https://www.comune.catania.it/informazioni/news/circolazione-stradale/ztl/default.aspx?news=33166

https://www.amts.ct.it/rilascio-permessi-laccesso-aree-pedonali-ztl

https://www.accessibilitacentristorici.it/ztl/sicilia/catania/parcheggio_catania.html

https://urbanaccessregulations.eu/countries-mainmenu-147/italy-mainmenu-81/sicilia-region/catania-ar

INSURANCE

If you rent a car, it is prudent to choose comprehensive insurance that covers all damages in case of an accident. Most drivers break the rules, so there are many minor collisions that occur daily, and you will see many dented cars. You will also come across cases of drivers using their cars without being covered by insurance: it is not like in the rest of Europe, where, if you are not insured, your vehicle is immediately confiscated.

REFUELLERS

A very important thing to take into account when planning a trip to Sicily is refuelling (petrol stations): it is important to know that, especially in inland areas, you can find long stretches of road without petrol stations, so it is better never to find yourself with your car in reserve.

GETTING AROUND BY TRAIN OR BUS

Travelling by train can be a convenient choice as well as the exact opposite: the main cities (Messina, Catania, and Palermo) are well connected, and travel is well-developed thanks to fast trains, while for other routes, the connections are more difficult, limited, and require long timetables and a number of changes.

Bus transport from the three main cities to various directions and destinations on the island is a more convenient and faster alternative to the train. The major companies Sais, Ast, and Interbus offer this service at the city terminals (usually outside the central train stations).

Useful links:

Driving in Sicily? yes, you must! Tips and Techniques - Streaty

Driving in Sicily: The Thrills and Challenges of Visiting Sicily by Car (travelnotesandbeyond.com)

Sicily, like many regions with a complex infrastructure and strong local rhythms, can occasionally face challenges when it comes to waste management. While this is more noticeable in certain urban areas, it does not define the overall experience of the island, which remains rich in natural beauty, culture and atmosphere. 

Waste collection systems can vary from town to town, with different schedules and methods in place. In some areas, you may notice bins that are full or collection services that operate differently from what you may be used to. This is simply part of the local way of life and tends to be more visible in larger cities than in coastal or rural settings.

 When staying in a villa, waste disposal is usually straightforward once you are familiar with the local system. Upon arrival, your host or check-in manager will provide guidance on how to separate and dispose of rubbish according to the local schedule. 

Following these simple instructions helps ensure everything runs smoothly during your stay. Despite these occasional inconsistencies, Sicily’s landscapes, historic towns and coastline remain exceptionally beautiful, offering an experience that far outweighs any minor inconveniences.

Sicily is among the most popular holiday destinations for LGBT+ tourists. Not only is there sea and culture, but also a varied range of gay or gay-friendly venues (including bars, discos, saunas, cruising, beaches, parties, and movida) and cultural events of various kinds, as well as services dedicated to the community, available throughout the year.

Recommended site: https://tourismi.it/turismo-lgbt-guida-locali-gay-sicilia-catania-palermo-messina/

Foreign citizens who are temporarily present for a period not exceeding 90 days (e.g. tourists) can use urgent and elective healthcare services upon payment of the relevant regional rates.

In case of need, you can contact the local tourist medical services (the lists of which can be easily found by going to the municipalities' tourist and/or institutional websites) and the first aid stations.

Some of the main services you may need to reach in case of need are

Police - 112 or 113

Ambulance - 118

Fire - 115

Operators will probably not speak English or any other foreign language (if they do, get help translating on your behalf).

European citizens have health care guaranteed by the European Health Insurance Card (EHIC), which gives them the right to receive all necessary treatment, including non-emergency care.

Anyone who is not a European citizen in Italy is temporarily entitled to hospital care if urgent or essential treatment is needed.

Emergency rooms and hospitals are crowded at all hours, with overburdened emergency personnel. If you need a doctor for smaller matters, looking for a private clinic or doctor is quicker.

In addition to the Blue Flags (awarded by the FEE Foundation for Environmental Education), Sicily and its Minor Islands also win “Vele”(awarded by Legambiente and Touring). Unlike the Blue Flags, the Sails concern not individual beaches but entire beach areas, with the idea of orienting a holiday that starts from the dives but also goes inland and to nearby towns. When awarding the Vele, Legambiente and Touring consider not only the certified water quality but also other parameters relating to the characteristics and protection of the environment.

Vele 2022 - Bathing Areas

5 Vele: Pantelleria Island (TP); Salina Island (ME)

4 Vele: San Vito lo Capo, Custonaci and Erice (TP); Noto and Portopalo di Capo Passero (SR)

3 Vele: Menfi, Realmonte, Sciacca and Siculiana (AG); Mazara del Vallo, Campobello di Mazara del Vallo, Marsala and Selinunte (TP); Pelagie Islands (Lampedusa and Linosa - AG); Egadi Islands (TP); Ustica Island (PA); Lipari (ME)

2 Vele: Cefalù, Pollina, Castellammare del Golfo and Balestrate (PA); Capo d'Orlando (ME)

1 Vela: Ragusa, Modica, Scicli, Pozzallo (RG); Taormina and Acireale (CT and ME)

Recommended site: https://guidablu.legambiente.it/2022

Blue Flag Beaches 2023

In the province of AGRIGENTO: Menfi - Porto Palo Cipollazzo, Lido Fiori Bertolino

In the province of Ragusa: Modica - Maganuco, Marina di Modica; Ispica - Santa Maria del Focallo; Pozzallo - Pietre Nere, Raganzino; Ragusa - Marina di Ragusa

In the province of MESSINA: Alì Terme - Lungomare di Alì Terme; Roccalumera - Roccalumera; Furci Siculo - Litorale; Santa Teresa di Riva - Lungomare di Santa Teresa di Riva; Lipari - Stromboli Ficogrande, Vulcano Gelso, Vulcano Acque Termali, Acquacalda, Canneto; Tusa - Lungomare Beach

The FEE list also includes 82 Italian tourist landings, including, in Sicily, Capo d'Orlando.

Green Flag Beaches 2023 (suitable for families and children):

Balestrate (PA); Campobello di Mazara - Tre Fontane - Torretta Granitola (TP); Catania - Playa (CT); Cefalù (PA); Giardini Naxos (ME); Ispica-Santa Maria del Focallo (RG); Lipari - Marina di Lipari-Acquacalda-Canneto (ME); Marsala - Signorino (TP); Mazara del Vallo - Tonnarella (TP); Menfi - Porto Palo di Menfi (AG); Noto - Vendicari (SR); Palermo-Mondello (PA); Pozzallo - Pietre Nere - Raganzino (RG); Ragusa-Marina di Ragusa (RG); Santa Croce Camerina - Casuzze - Punta secca - Caucana (RG); San Vito Lo Capo (TP); Scicli - Sampieri (RG); Vittoria - Scoglitti (RG).

PA=PALERMO; ME=MESSINA; CT=CATANIA; AG=AGRIGENTO; TP=TRAPANI; SR=SIRACUSA; RG=RAGUSA

To obtain Green Flag status, beaches must possess all the requirements deemed essential by paediatricians: sand, space between beach umbrellas for playing, crystal-clear water that does not immediately become high so that the little ones can safely go beyond the shoreline, the presence of lifeguards, dedicated equipment for children, and entertainment opportunities for parents (such as shops, restaurants, bars and sports facilities).

Safety on the beach and at the sea is just as important as in the city.

The 'lifeguard' (lifeguard assistant, beach attendant or often simply lifeguard) is the figure who watches over the safety (at sea) of those who frequent bathing establishments, swimming pools by the sea or lake.

When is a lifeguard compulsory?

A 'lifeguard' service is compulsory and a duty in bathing establishments. The owners of bathing establishments are obliged to ensure the presence of a lifeguard on the days and at the times they are open to the public and thus provide 'lifeguard services', also known as 'lifeguard service' or 'lifeguard service'.

Is there a lifeguard obligation on public beaches?

For all free beaches, i.e. all beaches that are not subject to a bathing concession (where the beach does not have an establishment and has not been concessioned to any private individual), there is no obligation to have a lifeguard.

BATHING: WATCH OUT FOR 'UNDERTOW CURRENTS'

Source: https://www.centrometeosicilia.it/la-temibile-corrente-di-risacca-di-cosa-si-tratta/

The undertow current, also known as the backwash current, is a very dangerous sea current.

It is an intense flow of water caused by the sea's wave motion that forms in front of the beach. This accumulation of water along the shoreline causes a real increase in pressure, which has to be compensated for by a backwash current. This current travels from the shore towards the open sea at high speed, dragging everything it encounters with it.

These currents mainly originate on sandy sea shores, especially when bordered by underwater rocks, which can form gullies on the seabed that make it even more dangerous. One can be sucked in and swept out to sea suddenly by a current at a high speed of up to 9 km/h, which makes it difficult for even the most experienced swimmers to return to shore.

How can one recognise the undertow current and thus avoid it?

Looking at the surface of the water reveals the existence of a current directed towards the open sea: in those places, the surface is unusually smooth and undulating, and the waves are as if broken precisely because of the strong back current. One can also recognise their presence by looking at the outline of the beach, which tends to take the form of larger or smaller inlets depending on the strength of the swell.

But what to do should one end up in such a current?

The most correct method is to swim parallel to the coast without wasting energy trying to reach the shore immediately. 

Fighting such a strong current is extremely time-consuming and tiring, and it is much better to get out sideways as soon as possible.